Saturday, September 12, 2009
We made it!
Wednesday, September 9, 2009
It's Canada!
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
Yellowstone
I guess it’s worth mentioning the trouble we got into last night. It was the first real could-be glitch of the trip. We had booked a Pohaska cabin to stay in, but when our GPS got us to the “location” of the cabins, we couldn’t find it. We asked around, and it turned out that we were still an hour away. Note: don’t put “Yellowstone Avenue” in the GPS when you are looking for “Yellowstone Highway.” We left the town we were in, Cody, set out for the cabins, and didn’t realize our gas was almost empty until half way there. Then my aunts realized that in many cases, if one doesn’t check into a cabin early, then one cannot check in at all. Then the drama started. We tried calling the cabin, but all of the lines went to voicemail. Aunt Trish then read the fine print that said “If you do not check in by 7:00, we will give away your cabin.” It was 10:30. We tried calling for back up hotels, but all three of us either had no signal, or had a dead phone. We also knew that we wouldn’t be able to make it back to Cody with this little gas. We were also driving through the Rockies. It was one big hectic situation. Everything had the potential to go wrong. However, thanks to what Aunt Amy calls “Aunt Tricia’s unfailing luck,” we got to the cabins, there was a gas station there, they had not given away our cabin, and there was someone there to check us in. Thank God. The cool thing, for me, about this whole ordeal was that, since we were driving through the Rockies and it was completely dark, I could look out of the window and all I saw were the mountains, moonlit, with stars above them. How can I even say how pretty that is?
This morning we went to Yellowstone National Park, which we all expected to be the pinnacle of the trip. I’ll break it down simply: Yellowstone is more of a park to visit if you are interested in natural occurrences, science, or hiking/camping. Because of a fire back in ’88, a ton of the trees are dead all over the park. I mean ugly dead. In that sense, the park was not very pretty. However, if there is a view far into the distance of a lake with mountains in the background, or a huge waterfall, it is gorgeous. These are two of the prettiest shots of the day:
I took maybe my favorite shot of the day when we approached a huge line of cars pulled over and I was the only one of the three of us who decided to get out and see what it was. As I passed one little girl, she looked up at me and said, with incredible awe: “It’s a bear!” I walked over to the crowd and expected to see this bear in the woods, right, but I literally gasped when I saw that the bear cub was less than 10 feet away from me. It was happily munching on a tree, not threatening any of its admirers, so I was able to steal this shot:
I love it!
Other than that, Yellowstone isn’t much to look at. It is full, and I mean FULL, of steaming geysers that send what looks like smoke into the air at all times. We saw quite a few of these bubbling pools today, and while some had a rainbow cascade in them, others were just green or gray mud boiling. It is very interesting, however, to watch this pool of water boiling naturally on a very chilly day. Of course, we went to see Old Faithful, and luckily, we only had to wait about 20 minutes for it to erupt. That was pretty awesome to watch. It was like one huge firehose shot into the sky. I don’t know how else to explain it. I really think it is something one has to enjoy in person.
I’m trying to keep this post shorter than the rest, because the other ones have just been silly. Tomorrow we drive to Canada!
Monday, September 7, 2009
Forever West
Yesterday we started out bright and early to see one of the greatest American monuments: Mount Rushmore. Seeing something in person that I’ve seen so many times in textbooks and pictures is actually sort of surreal. The faces of the four American presidents sit high up on top of a cliff, smaller to look at than I had imagined, but still a startling size when you first see them. We hiked half a mile up to them and stopped in the Sculptor’s Studio and listened to a speaker tell us the history of Mount Rushmore, some of which I must share with you because it is so interesting:
The idea of Mount Rushmore was conceived by some guy, simply because he wanted to increase tourism in the Black Hills. The idea was originally meant to sculpt American heroes, but when the guy hired sculptor Gutzon Borglum to carve out the faces, he instead decided to do four prominent presidents. The rock into which the faces are carved started off as completely flat. Borglum actually invented a projector that was so big that it could project an outline of the faces from the ground all the way onto the rock, and the workers outlined in white paint. Jefferson was supposed to be on Washington’s right side, our left, and they had even started carving his face, but they then hit a huge crack in the rock that prevented them from sculpting anymore (you can still see the crack). They blew up all that they had done, and put Jefferson where he is today. 90% of the sculpting was done by dynamite, and the other 10 % was done by workers who sat on what looks like a wooden swing with a two-inch wide leather back to it, who hung from a cable the size of one’s pinky finger from the top of where the heads are today. They used what look like today’s jackhammers. Behind Washington’s head are hundreds of stairs and a small workhouse. Each worker was provided with a respirator, and there was not one fatality in all of the 14 years that Mount Rushmore was being built. Lincoln and Washington were originally meant to have coats and hands, but when Borglum died, his son did not want the project to go on without him, and declared Mount Rushmore finished. To give you an idea of the size, Lincoln’s nose is 20 feet long. The faces are as smooth as “the smoothest sidewalk you’ve ever walked on” according to the park ranger, and they have only been cleaned once, in 2005, with water pressure.
Sorry that was so long! I just thought all of that was really fascinating. Mount Rushmore was one of my favorite stops so far. We continued to drive through the Black Hills, where there were lookout points that were stunning. We had to drive through a number of caves on the scenic Needle’s Highway, and saw Needle’s Eye, a rock known for it’s unusual shape. We then drove through Custer National Park, where, much to my delight, we got to drive past fields of grazing buffalo, not fenced in, completely in their natural habitat. One came as close as ten feet to us. They are ridiculously big- they can get up to 6 feet high and weigh one ton- and can outrun a horse. It was amazing. I now love buffalos.
We also went through Deadwood, which is a famous town from the early 1800’s, and while it is still set up like one would imagine an old western town, but now it is all casinos and bars.
This morning, after Amy and Tricia changed our car oil themselves (we’ve put over 2000 miles on this baby!), we drove to Devil’s Tower, most famous for being in the movie “Close Encounters of the Third Kind.” It’s crazy how this huge rock formation (made from an upsurge of molten rocks) is just in the middle of nowhere, rising up over the fields. It’s an especially sacred spot for Native Americans, and their story for it is pretty interesting: seven sisters were playing when a huge bear started chasing them. They could run fast enough, so they climbed on top of a rock and prayed to it to have mercy on them. The rock began to grow, higher and higher, and the bear clawed at it, resulting in the rock patterns along the sides of the Tower. The Tower rose so high that it vaulted the girls into the sky, where they remain, the Seven Sisters, or the modern day constellation Pleiades. Pretty neat stuff. We hiked a mile around the Tower and saw some crazy mofos climbing it, without anything pulling them up (they just use a rope in case they slip).
At one point we came to another lookout, far over a vast area of land with a winding river going through it and grassy hills in the background. One of the best things out here is that the lands are almost completely untouched, and as childish as this sounds, I swear you can look out onto some of these hills and plains and see the Native Americans and/or settlers just riding across the field. It’s just easy to picture. People out here preserve their natural lands incredibly well. The fine for littering is $750.
I have more to say, but this is quite long already, so I’ll save it until later. Thanks again if you are reading this.
Saturday, September 5, 2009
South Dakota
Our first stop was Sioux Falls, which is one of the only cities South Dakota has. It was full of casinos, saloons, and motorcycles. At eleven at night, everything shut down and the stoplights all started flashing. At first I thought that the city was simply one big truck stop, but when we got to the actual waterfalls of Sioux Falls, I was proven wrong. It has a cute little downtown with a train that goes over a bridge in the background of the waterfalls. The waterfalls are in the center of a nicely manicured lawn with a lookout building and the remains of a mill built in the 1880’s. There are strange formations of rock surrounding the area. It was very pretty.
A couple of hours later, we got to Mitchell, SD to visit what is advertised as “the world’s largest palace made entirely of corn.” I was pretty excited, as I’m sure any reasonable person would be. This thing was advertised like it was freakin’ South of the Border, so I figured it must be good. I was mistaken. The Corn Palace is a gymnasium with corn decorations on the outside of it. Yeah, that’s it. Such a disappointment. Don’t waste time seeing it. Nothing but the outer décor is made of corn.
THEN WE SAW BUFFALO. We had been looking out for them, and all we saw were cows, cows, cows. But there they were. Four of them, just standing in the middle of a field. Huge, awkward looking things, but also oddly majestic. It was SO cool! We freaked out.
After driving a little bit further, we stopped at the Badland’s Petrified Garden, which had a backyard full of petrified wood and moss and animal bones. It was pretty cool. The last ice age pushed all of the trees deep into the earth, and when the ice melted, the trees resurfaced and were rock. The place had petrified animal bones from 40 million years ago, and a ton of fossils. It was cool.
From there we drove further to something that made up for my Corn Palace excitement: the Badlands National Park. Looking at pictures of the Badlands, I thought that it would be interesting, but nothing stellar. Those pictures don’t do it justice; the Badlands are amazing. I haven’t been to the Grand Canyon, but I imagine this was a formation vaguely similar. Here’s the scene: we’re driving in the car, watching all of the rolling South Dakota hills and seeing a lot of cows and such, and then all of a sudden, there are canyons and mountains of rocks spanned out right in front of us. The Badlands in total are 240,000 acres. It’s massive. We took a windy road through 40 miles of the Badlands, where there are look out points all over, where we stood on the edge of these cliffs and look out 50 miles into the distance at more cliffs, plateaus, grasslands, and more mountains. It was incredible. The Badlands all look pretty much the same, but against the bright blue sky, they also all look different.
My eyes actually are open there.
At the very end of them, we saw a bunch of cars stopped, only to get out and see fields full of prairie dog holes and the little creatures generously posing for pictures, only feet away from us. They were so cute!!
Our final stop was Wall Drug, a drug store that has been around since the early 1900’s and is now the biggest drug store in the world. That is not an exaggeration. This thing had, among many other things, a drug store (go figure), a boot shop, a clothing store, two restaurants, a donut shop, an ice cream shop, a souvenir shop, a mineral shop, a place to buy guns, an art gallery, a place to buy deer heads, and a chapel, just in case you wanted to pray in a drug store. It was insane.
Let me just finish this unnecessarily long entry by saying that the scenery of South Dakota is truly beautiful. There are rolling hills, bails of hay, and tiny farms everywhere. We started passing huge sunflower fields all along the highway, where all you can look out and see are fields of yellow. No one litters out here, so it’s all very clean. There are lakes with horses grazing nearby, and so far, the sky has always been a vivid, clear blue. But I have to say, the most stunning thing so far, and this applies for almost every night, is the sunset. When the land is completely flat, we can see an entire horizon of a rainbow-colored sunset. Seriously, the sky goes from dark blue to light blue, green, yellow, pink, orange, and red. The sun casts yellow rays through all of the colors, and it is breathtaking. And since we are driving west, and since it’s the right time of year, we can look forward at the sunset and then look behind us at the Badlands, completely dark, but with a full moon over them.